Coral bells start blooming in spring and don't stop until the end of August. Dead-heading will help extend the bloom season.

We have many varieties, of which the ones below are just a sampling. Each of them is truly unique in its own way. We encourage you to visit us and and see these and the other varieties we stock - in all of their summer glory! We currently have a great selection in stock - but these are popular plants, so don't wait too long to come by!

'Crème Brûlée'
Showy bronze foliage stays bright throughout summer. Brown sugar highlights transform the foliage with cold temperatures. Masses of bell-shaped white blooms in spring. Full sun to full shade. Vigorous. Very hardy. Great for containers. Sun to part shade. 8-12" tall. Semi-evergreen.

'Plum Pudding'
A beautiful variety. Purple-burgundy foliage with light silver molting. Leaves become more silver later in the season. Flowers are insignificant compared to the foliage. Full sun-shade. 8-10" high. Semi-evergreen. Resistant to mildew, spider mites and white flies.

'Amber Waves'
Finally, a gold leaf coral bells! Ruffled, amber-gold foliage that becomes burnt orange as the leaves get older. Light rose-colored flowers combine attractively with the foliage. Part sun. Foliage 8" tall, 16-18" wide.

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While supplies last - don't miss out!

By Tamara Galbraith

It's the middle of summer. The heat is on, and while you're sporting a nice tan, your plants have suddenly taken on a pale, pasty look. What gives? Say hello to the fungus disease known as powdery mildew.

A common condition found on plant life throughout North America, powdery mildew is characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Fortunately, it is usually more of an effect than a problem itself. In other words, in addition to treating the plant, you'll probably want to take a look at the surrounding conditions and make some adjustments.

First and foremost is to make sure you give plants plenty of room. Good air circulation goes a long way. Trim plants that have gotten crowded or bushy. Avoid overhead watering, and don't make late summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer, as powdery mildew loves to attack the newest plant growth which, of course, nitrogen encourages.

To halt the fungus in its tracks, spray with a good fungicide. And next time around, try to choose the more mildew-resistant cultivars of plants that are most susceptible to powdery mildew, like zinnias, beebalm, crape myrtles, cucumbers and squash.

By Tamara Galbraith

A few years ago, a Mt. Gretna, PA, couple known for inventing wacky holidays designated August 8 as “Sneak Some Zucchini onto your Neighbor’s Porch Night". Any gardener who has successfully grown summer squash and zucchini will chuckle with understanding over that one. Invariably, we end up with way more zukes than we can possibly eat. We give them to friends, family and co-workers but every time we turn around, there's more.

Occasionally, though, people do have trouble growing zucchini. Here are a couple of common complaints, with suggested solutions:

Q: My zucchini/squash plant is producing lots of leaves and flowers, but no fruit.
A: This is usually a pollination issue, i.e., the pollen on the male flowers isn't reaching the female flowers, due to low bee and other pollinating insect activity. Female flowers have swelling at the base of the flower. Take a Q-tip, get some pollen from a few male flowers, and rub it on the sticky middle part at the end of the female flowers' pistils. You can also plant several bee-attracting flowers around the zucchini plants.

Q. I have some zucchini fruit growing on my plants, but the end of the fruit starts to go rotten before I can harvest.
A. Two things can cause this rotting: a calcium deficiency or an irregular watering schedule. Add mulch around your zucchinis and water on a regular schedule. If that doesn't help, water a small handful of finely ground limestone into to the soil around each plant to raise calcium levels.